Alexandria, The End of The Affair

It’s an optimistic morning as I stroll along Rue Nebi Daniel, heading Downtown from the station just as the city is waking. Egyptian cities tend to emerge slowly from slumber; nights are often long, and mornings are reluctant. I think of Mahfouz as I walk; he would have taken a taxi or carriage. He wouldn’t have walked; his luggage wouldn’t have had wheels and would be heavy with books. After Cairo, he too would be appreciating the cool December breeze.

I pass the street leading to Cavafy’s house. No doubt, he would have walked the same pavement in search of a shave and his morning coffee, perhaps in the company of E.M. Forster, gossiping about Greece, war, and women. Over my shoulder is the Eliahu Hanavi Synagogue; maybe a smitten Lawrence Durrell would have accompanied the Gypsy Cohen there. Either way, they courted along these dusty streets.

Towards the end of the street, I get my first glimpse, a glimmer of blue through a tear in the concrete landscape: the Mediterranean Sea, its tide tied to promise, either connecting or separating depending on which side you stand.

Ashraf, the waiter, brings my coffee with a little sugar; somehow, in Egypt, I need an extra boost of energy. I survey the street from my window seat; the daily momentum is building. Office workers wearing suits with wonky fitting ties, a group of married middle-aged women smoking, and a young couple discreetly arguing in a shop doorway. The grate of wooden chairs being dragged across the tiled coffee shop floor and a waft of shisha smoke compete with the smell of incense. The old man had shuffled past swinging his mabkhara; the sweet aroma of bakhoor is as old as civilization itself.

On the other side of the road, the sun is breaking through the clouds and clipping the satellite dishes sprinkled on the apartment rooftops. The leaves of the palm trees that line the Corniche are stretched in the breeze. The Corniche is Alexandria; it may be the edge of the continent, but it’s the center of everything else.

The squat fort of Qaitbey sits squarely on the far hook of the harbor, as it has done for over 500 years. When the sky is dark and imposing, the limestone faรงade radiates a yellow glow as the light bounces off the ancient stones. Built by a Mamluk Sultan to protect the city from European invaders, a city whose importance was taken so seriously by Ptolemy that he built a lighthouse so tall its smoldering embers could be seen by sailors 70 kilometers away. Its architectural brilliance was recognized as a Wonder of the Ancient World, lost only to time and tide when it was consumed by nature and a powerful earthquake.

The importance of Alexandria lies not in the ghosts of the past but as a modern metropolis, the second-largest city in Egypt and the principal port of the country. It is vital in industry, agriculture, and tourism, yet fragile and vulnerable. Its ever-increasing population struggles for space and sustenance. As with most cities across Egypt, the flow of migrants from rural villages is constant.

When we think of the mild-mannered Med, we think of gentle lapping turquoise, a fortnight of sundowners and mezze lunches, a slow pace, and a lifestyle to aspire to. And yet, those nice people at UNESCO want to piss on the the picnic by warning that Alexandria is just one of several Mediterranean cities that must be tsunami-ready by 2030. Already, shifting weather patterns are whipping up indignant waves that hurtle over the sea walls and flood the city.

The city of Alexandria sits on the edge of the Nile Delta; the low-lying land is the most fertile in a very dry area, and already, saltwater is seeping into the earth. Farmers are fighting and not winning a potentially catastrophic battle.

Bollards, blocks, and barriers have taken the place of sandy beaches. The concrete beach has become an urban playground, cheap entertainment for a struggling populationโ€”a population that shrugs and smiles at rampant inflation, which persists despite political turbulence and deserves better. Much better.

Concrete bollards on the beach are designed to prevent the flooding of the city of Alexandria caused by rising sea levels

A steady flow of humanity envelops the corniche as an uneventful sunset drifts into the evening. The junior balloon salesman, popcorn sellers, and skateboarders weave through the throng. I sit on the wall and watch a fisherman wrangle his net; the sea is dark and a little choppy, and I feel an overwhelming sense of sadness.

I meander along the seafront and in and out of side streets, some busy with shoppers and others empty and dark. Past doorways with spiral staircases and scary elevators, inside a lit window, a chandelier hangs heavy with dust.

The Cecil Hotel popular with well known writers such as Lawrence Durrell and Naguib Mahfouz, Saad Zaghloul Square, Alexandria, Egypt,

At Saad Zagloul, the traffic is clogged, wasp-colored taxis swarm, and an orchestra of car horns plays at full pelt. I looked for Athinios Cafรฉ but it seemed now to be a fast-food restaurant called Bazooka. Outside the Cecil, I hoped to get a glimpse of Justine in the vestibule; I didn’t, of course, but the doorman who I met earlier raised his hand in recognition. I chatted with Saสฝid , a young, well-dressed Egyptian man who told me this is Greece, not Egypt; he asked if we could be friends.

Alexander was not only great, his military prowess never in dispute, but he was also a romantic, inspired by great literature. After his emphatic defeat of the Persians, he was visited in a dream by Homer, who read lines from the Odyssey that mentioned Pharos. So, he made his way to the rocky outcrop not far from the mouth of the Nile. Who knows if he took a volume of the epic poem from its golden casket and read a few lines to himself, but we do know that there and then he decided to build the most remarkable city in the ancient worldโ€”a city of culture and learning, of innovation and inspiration, a city of poets and their muses. A city that burned, a city that crumbled, a city that rose again and thrived, and whose legacy is eternal and will ultimately survive.

…………………………….

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Comments

96 responses to “Alexandria, The End of The Affair”

  1. rabirius Avatar

    Beautifully written! One feels like one is there with you.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      A pleasure to have you alongside ๐Ÿ™‚ Thank you

    2. Chuckster Avatar
      Chuckster

      I agree with rabirius, well done mate. Though I have never been there, through your words maybe I have.

      1. johnwreford Avatar

        Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚ I am pleased to have taken you along

  2. Yetismith Avatar

    Far away in a very different place, I could visualize all you described, could hear and smell it all and I could feel your sadness. I do hope you are right, that Alexandria will continue to survive.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Lets hope so.
      I am so glad you enjoyed this-Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  3. mytimetotravel Avatar

    Beautiful, evocative writing. I’m afraid many treasured cities will be losing out to climate change.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Sadly so. Thank you for the kind comment ๐Ÿ™‚

  4. Flowerpoet Avatar

    Fascinating! โ˜€๏ธ๐Ÿ˜

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  5. Rosaliene Bacchus Avatar

    Thanks for bringing Alexandria to life with your excellent descriptive prose and photos.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      My pleasure-do glad you enjoyed it. Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  6. todgermanica Avatar

    Excellent writing as usual, knockout pics. You write more memorably than The Alexandria Quartet, that’s many hours lost for me in the 1970s. A traveler like you has probably read everything Graham Greene wrote. I never did get to The End of The Affair, 1951, made into a movie too, but I did read his two other ‘catholic’ novels, Brighton Rock, and The Power and the Glory, with the memorable ‘whisky priest’. Writers and artists have always loved Alexandria. Your beautiful pictures help explain why.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you, praise indeed. I do find parts if the Quartet quite beautiful but also a stuggle-I think the world is split on this. Yes, of course GG is a constant companion. A couple of great movies too. Our Man in Havana ๐Ÿ™‚ Thank you

  7. destinybluemoon Avatar

    Iโ€™ve not seen any of your posts for a while. I was happy to find this in my inbox today. Your description of Alexandria is spectacular. The closest memory I have to compare was early morning in Rome where I had a similar experience. Only colder, ๐Ÿ˜

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Ah Rome ๐Ÿ™‚
      Yes, I have been a little busy rrecently-in a good way, Lots more to come ๐Ÿ™‚
      So glad you enjoyed the post-
      Thank you

  8. katelon Avatar

    Thanks for this evocative writing and photos.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you for reading and the kind comment ๐Ÿ™‚

  9. rheinsberg Avatar

    What a wonderful walk through this old city which I never saw in my life but now feel its breath waving by. Thank you for this, as much as for the great pictures.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      My pleasure, so glad you enjoed the journey. Thank you

  10. Keith Barnes Avatar
    Keith Barnes

    Nice story John, very evocative and of time and place. Unfortunately the buy me a coffee butt

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Cheers Matey ๐Ÿ™‚ Speak soon I hope

  11. Paranpotion Avatar

    What a .. ! ๐Ÿ‘

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      haha thank you-I think ๐Ÿ™‚

  12. Crina Avatar

    Enjoyable as usual. Let me recommend this book for your shelf – it made a big difference for me, even though I have been to Greece (too) many times already.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you Crina-for sure. In fact I have now already recommended it to a friend!

  13. cindy knoke Avatar

    I recognize the rip rap.

  14. Anna Avatar

    Always a joy to see a post from you John! Alexandria has been high on my wish list ever since reading Durrellโ€™s quartet. Have you read Olivia Manningโ€™s Levant Trilogy? One I think you might enjoy too.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you Anna ๐Ÿ™‚
      I have not read Olivia Manning but it is on my list-once I can pick-up a copy. Good reminder.

  15. Taran Avatar

    Very nicely written. Sharing on Facebook. Thoughtful, blending history with the present.
    Also, I have traveled with Homer in hand.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      I am glad to hear it ๐Ÿ™‚
      Thank you Taran

  16. poetisatinta Avatar

    Thanks for taking us with you on your journey through Alexandria John, full of atmosphere, I particularly love the photograph of the solitary balloon seller, the red is such a contrast, and if there was such a thing as a balloon tree, that would be it ๐ŸŽˆ

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      How wonderdul-a balloon tree! So glad you enjoyed the trip, however brief. Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

      1. poetisatinta Avatar

        โค๏ธ

  17. rutakintome Avatar

    Thanks for taking me there.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      A pleasure, as always my friend ๐Ÿ™‚

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you so much ๐Ÿ™‚

  18. Janet Simmonds Avatar

    Evocative and haunting, I like the slightly menacing Mediterranean!

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚ Menacing and mischievous-indeed

  19. Tracy Abell Avatar

    Another beautiful and evocative piece, John. Stay well.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you, Tracy. I’m so glad you enjoyed it.
      Best wishes for the New Year ๐Ÿ™‚ x

  20. Adrienn Avatar

    That’s a beautiful writing, John.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      So kind of you, thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  21. JakeWPowell Avatar

    Thank you for sharing your experiences, John.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you, my pleasure Jake

  22. themarcistagenda Avatar

    Fabulous photos and wonderful words. Thank you- and for reminding me that Iโ€™d like to reread the Alexandria Quartet one fine day. Greetings Marc ( West Wales)

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚
      Read and visit-hopefully ๐Ÿ™‚

  23. restlessjo Avatar

    It sounds a fascinating city. I love your descriptive powers. I’ve never yet been to North Africa. Maybe I should start with Alexandria, before it’s washed away?

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      It absolutely is. You will be spoiled for choice tho, given all that Egypt has to offer.
      Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  24. Expedition Addict Avatar

    Alexandria sounds so beautiful

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Its a fascinating city, troubled and beautiful and with an incredible history. I hope you get there some day

  25. Shayan Afzal Avatar
    Shayan Afzal

    Your blog post โ€œAlexandria, The End of The Affairโ€ beautifully captures the essence of Alexandriaโ€™s rich history and its modern-day struggles. The vivid descriptions of your walk through the city, invoking literary giants and historical landmarks, paint a poignant picture of a city balancing its glorious past with present challenges. The looming threat of climate change on this coastal metropolis adds a layer of urgency and poignancy to your narrative. Itโ€™s a compelling read that elegantly intertwines the personal, historical, and environmental aspects of Alexandria.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      An equally impressive comment Shayan ๐Ÿ™‚
      Thank you

  26. alazynerd Avatar

    First time reading your blog. What a beautiful way to express your journey! Good luck.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you so much, I am glad you enjoyed the post

  27. Alec Harper Avatar
    Alec Harper

    What a wonderful way with words. Very well done. I had the good fortune of traveling to Egypt in 1996 – truly a magical and haunting place.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you Alec.
      I am glad I brought back some lovely memories. Always a fascinating place

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  28. A traditional healer (Sangoma)- Dr. Moosa Lubega. Avatar

    Feeling the vibrant energy of Alexandria’s morning as the city awakens. #OptimisticVibes #RueNebiDaniel #MahfouzInspiration

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      I am glad, thank you for the nice comment

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you so much

  29. Glossarists Avatar
    Glossarists

    What a vivid journey through the charming streets of Alexandria! Your descriptions transport me to the historic corners, from the Eliahu Hanavi Synagogue to the iconic Qaitbey fort. The blend of past and present, with echoes of Mahfouz and glimpses of Lawrence Durrellโ€™s Alexandria, creates a rich tapestry of the cityโ€™s cultural depth. The impending challenges, both environmental and societal, add a layer of complexity to the narrative. Itโ€™s a poignant exploration that captures the essence of Alexandriaโ€™s resilience and enduring legacy. Canโ€™t wait to hear more tales from your travels!

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you for the beautiful and concise comment ๐Ÿ™‚

  30. #winewildernesswanderlust Avatar
    #winewildernesswanderlust

    Awesome!

  31. Ritish Sharma Avatar

    It felt like I was right there, strolling along Rue Nebi Daniel and soaking in the cool December breeze. Safe travels ๐ŸŒ

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  32. Dua For Ex Love Back Avatar
    Dua For Ex Love Back

    cool

  33. histrionicabutterfly Avatar

    You write beautifully and your photos confirm well what i see in my mind’s eye. I save your work for when i’m frazzled and need a bit of art and peace.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you. I am glad my words can bring even the semblance of being less frazzled

  34. alibey Avatar

    lovely post; you migh want to visit Montazah Palace and see if anything is left of the place where I used to live in a chalet right on Cleopatra beach for 3 months every summer in the mid 60s. see https://vimeo.com/64831471 This has now been turned in a grotesque resort called Palma Beach Inn. I used to swim every morning all alone at 6am in Aida beach, before the brutalist buildings were built that now tower over the walls of the palace. I have never stopped hearing the exquisite music of that particular procession of summers, and will never say goodbye to her, to the Alex I lost so long ago. The memory of her, as she was then, remains unbearably painful.

  35. alibey Avatar

    i withdraw my comment. wasted.

  36. pgurris Avatar

    Evocative and beautiful, transporting writing, lovely photographs… hard to do it justice on a grey, machine-noise filled, cold February morning in dreary Germany. Thanks very much.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you, I am so glad to hear that.

  37. thesimlux Avatar

    Great piece of photojournalism here!!

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Appreciate the nice comment-thank you

      1. thesimlux Avatar

        All the best to you this year!

  38. lesleyscoble Avatar

    A beautiful write. Thank you for taking me on this journey. ๐Ÿ’™

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you. It was a pleasure to take you along ๐Ÿ™‚

  39. Moongirl Avatar

    Beautifully written post and photos.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      So kind of you to say so, thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  40. Art Hernandez Avatar

    beautiful pictures

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you ๐Ÿ™‚

  41. elainekenney Avatar

    Beautiful photos and stories that take me to that place.

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      Thank you Elaine ๐Ÿ™‚

    1. johnwreford Avatar

      So kind, thank you.

  42. Michelle Avatar

    Thank you for liking my post and bringing me here! It was a beautiful way to start my day.

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